I'd been back and forth on whether to do another whiskey comparison before resuming more intimate looks at individual bottles, or something more informational like the whys and hows of my favorite spirit. Considering the (relative) dearth of whiskey posts lately I continue to like writing about several at a time and, simultaneously, contrasting these head-to-head. It's always revelatory, and usually results in a clear winner or a clear loser amongst the grouping. That's well worth it to me. So, likely for the last time for a while, we'll be examining three different whiskeys, this time all high proof American Ryes.
For a quick summation, Rye whiskey requires the mashbill (the breakdown of grains taken and distilled) to be at least 51% rye, and often is much higher than that. This is unlike Bourbon where the distillate needs to come from 51+% corn. The different grains produce a different flavor profiles, though there will be overlap as basically all Bourbons use some rye and many Ryes use some corn. Ryes are going to be spicier and perhaps fruitier while Bourbons are sweeter, with prominent caramel and vanilla.
Over time Ryes have become my favorite type of whiskey. I'm unique in this with my other whiskey-loving friends who all seem to prefer Scotch or Bourbon. But that's part of the fun. My point is this one should be useful for me personally. The bottles are Rare Breed Rye, a Wild Turkey product that's basically everywhere and will act as a baseline (I know I like it a lot), Old Ezra 7 Rye, a fairly new release and companion to a Bourbon of the same name, and Old Riff Single Barrel Rye, a store pick from local gem Ace Spirits. When we're done we'll have completed a little trio of three-way contests, together with the high proof Bourbon face-off and the single malt showdown featuring three different countries.
Distillery - Wild Turkey Distillery in Lawrenceburg, KY
ABV - 56.1% (112.2 proof)
Mash - 51% rye, 37% corn, 12% malted barley (standard WT rye profile apparently)
Age - NAS (no age statement)
Price - ~$60 (though I've seen it as low as $45)
Note - I feel like this is always on the shelves, at least around me
Distillery - Distilled/aged in Indiana, bottled by Lux Row Distillers (MGP) in Bardstown, KY
ABV - 57% (114 proof)
Mash - Blend of a 51% rye whiskey and a 95% rye whiskey
Age - at least 7 years
Price - ~$80
Note - Brand new release in 2022, seeing recently again at Total Wine
New Riff Single Barrel Rye - Ace Spirits store pick
Distillery - New Riff Distilling in Newport, KY
ABV - 58.75% (117.5 proof)
Mash - 95% rye, 5% malted rye
Age - 4 years, 9 months (Nov'18 - Aug'23)
Price - ~$55 (I think I paid $65 for the pick)
Note - I have not tried a 'standard' bottle of this, which don't seem hard to find
The Rare Breed is a barely there Rye while the New Riff comes 100% from rye grains. The Old Ezra 7 is a mix of a low and high percentage rye, which is interesting, and a bit more expensive than the other two. Overall, the price difference isn't all that much and the proof spread is small (112.2-117.5). It should be an illuminating tasting. I, once again, was joined by my wife.
Thoughts after sampling:
Rare Breed Rye fulfilled its role as a baseline nicely. It's, first of all, easily the lightest in color. The rye flavors, of lemon and pepper here, blend well with the burnt sugar that comes with just about all American whiskey. The combination somewhat mutes the rye in the creation of a nicely balanced profile. Then there's definitely some burn, as you might expect at the proof, but I note this as it was the harshest of the three bottles tried, not to say it felt in any way cheap. Overall the flavors and the effect are strong, but the rye side of it doesn't punch you in the mouth.
Old Ezra 7 Rye is an awesomely complex bottle. Coming in this was the expected favorite and I thought it might become my new favorite Rye (surpassing Wilderness Trail). That's, anyway, how good the first impression was when we opened it a few weeks ago. It's zesty and fruity, as the best Ryes are, and, like its Bourbon brother, smoother than it ought to be. The charcoal filtering (something common in Tennessee Whiskey, of which I'm not usually a fan) certainly plays a part. And best of all, it still provides the desired nice warm hug. Overall I'd call it an upgraded version of the Rare Breed, in terms of depth of flavors and refinement. My wife called this one a 'Willy Wonka whiskey,' likening it to the chewing gum taking you through an entire meal. (No, we did not turn into a blueberry.)
New Riff Single Barrel Rye comes 100% from rye grain (95% rye and 5% malted rye), and it shows. Though it's less than five years old it's also the darkest in color, slightly. Calling it rye-forward would be an understatement, though I have to say that the spicy/peppery aspect isn't overpowering. More than anything I want to describe it as incredibly fresh, with amped up florals, like you're eating flowers and apples. In my opinion it was also the easiest to drink of the three. I absolutely loved it, though admittedly this one might not be for you if you can't stand Ryes.
Both of us struggled to pick a favorite and opted in the end for a blind tasting with second sips. Following this I ranked them New Riff > Old Ezra > Rare Breed. My wife went Rare Breed > New Riff > Old Ezra, and was very surprised with her top selection, commenting 'I guess I'm a Turkey girl.' Taking the average I need to exclaim New Riff the winner.
Here's the thing though, this tasting went quite differently than the previous two. We honestly did like them all, even in direct comparison. These are three great bottles and differ only really in a matter of taste. It shouldn't be all that surprising that I went for the maximum rye. It also shouldn't be all that surprising my wife went for the bold and balanced. She likes strong flavors.
For tonight, cheers!
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