If there's one (relatively) under the radar Irish whiskey I've appreciated for a while, it's Kilbeggan. I don't know if it started with our trip to Ireland in 2015, which seems most likely, or some other time, not that it matters I guess. The reason was one particular bottle: the Kilbeggan 8 year. It was a 'single grain' whiskey (a misnomer, as the mash contains corn and malted barley), it was smooth and fruity and delicious and was only like $40 if I remember correctly. Unfortunately that bottle is no longer available, but I still want to like the brand.
Let's take a look at it. Kilbeggan is an Irish whiskey that's been produced at the Cooley distillery in Ireland. When the Cooley distillery opened there were only two other distilleries operating on the island, those being the New Midleton distillery in Cork (Jameson/Redbreast/more) and the Old Bushmills distillery in Northern Ireland. Both had been around a long time and were owned by Irish Distillers, who effectively operated a monopoly. Cooley, in 1987, thus, was the first new Irish distillery in decades and there wasn't another until 2003. In the past 10 years there's been a real explosion of distilleries in Ireland but Cooley was well ahead of the game. In 2011 the distillery, up to that point independently owned and operated, sold to Jim Beam (now Beam Suntory). Besides Kilbeggan, Cooley owns and produces Connemara (peated Irish single malt), the Tyrconnell (single malt) and 2 Gingers (blended).
As for the Kilbeggan brand, it goes back a lot farther than 1987. In fact, what's now known as the Kilbeggan distillery, located (naturally) in Kilbeggan, Ireland, halfway between Dublin and Galway, goes back to 1757. It had a good run of success, especially under one proprietor during the 19th century, but eventually stopped production in 1953 following Prohibition, increased local taxes and other factors. To the towns' people it wasn't the end, however, and in 1982 they bought and restored the old facilities (without the equipment) and opened a museum. Five years later, in 1987, the new Cooley distillery acquired Kilbeggan, with plans to eventually resume production. This finally happened in 2007, on its 250th anniversary. I love the detail that throughout all this each subsequent owner keep the license up to date, even when there seemed to be no hope of making new spirit.
Today, according to their website, the brand includes four expressions: 'Kilbeggan' (blended), 'Kilbeggan Small Batch Rye,' 'Kilbeggan Single Pot Still,' and 'Kilbeggan Single Grain.' That bottle that got me to like the brand, the 8 year, had a confusing back-and-forth name change (at one point it was called 'Greenore') before being discontinued entirely. The newer Kilbeggan Single Grain is the replacement, made in the same vein but lacking the same age. I'll probably want to try that one too, later.
As for where Kilbeggan is made right now, it's kinda complicated. From 1987 to 2007 the distillation was all done at the Cooley distillery. Since then some has undoubtedly transitioned to Kilbeggan, where the warehouses sit and the whiskey is matured, but I can't say how much. What I do know is the bottle we're reviewing, the Small Batch Rye, was the first expression to entirely be made at the old Kilbeggan location since resuming production there. I didn't know that when I bought it and it does make it more fun to try.
What drew me to it was the simple fact it's an Irish Rye, something I hadn't seen before, and made by Kilbeggan, a brand I wanted to revisit. The mashbill is only ~30% rye (different labeling regulations there), a still sizable percentage, with the rest a combination of malted and unmalted barley, something unique to Ireland. It turns out historically (pre-Prohibition) Irish whiskey often included rye, though it basically never does anymore. It's also only twice distilled. Most Irish stuff, if you didn't know, goes through the stills three times. All around it's out of the ordinary.
ABV - 43% (86 proof)
Mash - ~70% barley (malted and unmalted), ~30% rye
Maturation - ex-Bourbon barrels
Age - at least four years (according to the website, not on the bottle)
Location - Kilbeggan, County Westmeath, Ireland
Price - ~$30
Tasting Notes:
Nose - very fruity (apples? citrus?), barley, some booze
Color - solid, middle of the road amber
Taste - more fruit, cream, some spices (doesn't scream rye tho), rich
Finish - fairly long, at first more lingering sweetness then dry spices build
Final Thoughts:
This is a gem, especially at $30. It breaks the primary rules you think about when it comes to Irish whiskey: only a double distillation (instead of triple) and rye is included in the mash. But the result is lovely. The pro: a deeper depth of flavors than you'll otherwise find in its price range for Irish. The con: it's not quite as smooth (though is still very easy to drink).
I've learned I'm still a fan of Kilbeggan, and you probably should be too. If you see this for $30 or less its easily a solid purchase. And I'll be keeping an eye out for a good price on the Single Grain as well.
Sláinte!
Comments