I need to cover more places before we move, gah!
Harpers Ferry, WV is another cool spot we've seen a few times over the course of our life in Maryland. Only about 30 minutes from our home in Frederick, it's the closest place in West Virginia and on the border of three states (MD, VA, WV). I always smile at the laughably quick interlude through Virginia on the way there, it's like a quarter mile, but that's how the road takes you. The reason Harpers Ferry intersects three states comes from its location jetting out into the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers. The Potomac is the (largely E/W) border between Maryland and both Virginia and West Virginia, and the Shenandoah runs along the (largely N/S) border between Virginia and West Virginia in the easternmost part of the Mountain State.
Called Harpers Ferry after Robert Harper, who operated a 18th century boat service there (when it was called "Harper's Ferry" with an apostrophe), the history of the tiny town (population ~300) is most connected with the Civil War and one of the primary events that preceded it. In 1799 the US government built an armory and arsenal there. One of two such locations in the country (the other being in Massachusetts), these armories provided the US Army with nearly all its small arms for 60 years. Because of this, it was here in October 1859 that John Brown conducted his 'raid,' desiring to seize the sizable stock of guns and ammunition in the town. A hardened abolitionist, Brown and 21 others aimed to incite a slave revolt in the South in a bid to end slavery. Their effort was a failure, for after taking a few buildings Brown's men were pinned down by local militia until the arrival of US Marines (commanded, curiously enough, by Robert E. Lee). Ten of the raiders were killed and seven, including Brown, were captured, tried, and hanged in Charles Town, the county seat a few miles away. Overall the event was a media sensation, driven largely by the recent invention of the telegraph, and more clearly than ever revealed the unbearable national tensions of slavery. Brown's words at trial turned him into a hero for many, impressive for a man just convicted of treason and murder. It was most certainly a flashpoint on the way to civil war.
During the Civil War itself, though no longer an active armory, Harpers Ferry was traded between Union and Confederate sides eight times. Lee took it initially during his first invasion of Maryland in 1862. After climbing Maryland Heights with artillery on the other side of the Potomac, Confederates bombarded the town and forced the capture of 12k+ Union troops, the largest surrender of US soldiers until WWII. Confederate soldiers under A.P. Hill soon rushed to Antietam and played a crucial role in the endgame of that bloody battle too. The Union did learn from its mistakes and later both contested Maryland Heights and used it to command the town when roles were reversed. Simply put, Harpers Ferry could not be held due to the surrounding bluffs and was not of enough strategic importance to try.
Today a chunk of the land at Harpers Ferry is operated by the National Park Service. There are exhibits demonstrating what the town was like during the mid 19th century and the Civil War. The building where John Brown and his men barricaded themselves stands close to the rivers. You can check out the rest of the old town and take in the view from Jefferson Rock, where the third President stood in 1783 and noted the area's beauty. People still live there too and operate a few restaurants, ice cream parlors and shops. If visiting, you can pull in through a NPS gate, pay to park and take a shuttle bus over to town. Or you can actually drive in yourself and park at an honor-system lot or a meter, just don't think you can do this on a nice weekend afternoon when it's warm, it can get extremely busy.
The best reason for visiting is undoubtedly the scenery and hiking, which I talked about briefly in another post. I love the (relatively) short hike up to Maryland Heights, where you can stand on the rocks and peer down on the rivers and town from 300 feet up. To do this you need to cross a pedestrian bridge over the Potomac and walk along the C&O canal a bit, so the trip can be a little longer than expected. There are also trails elsewhere, including to another overlook on the Virginia side Loudoun Heights (which comes off the Appalachian Trail) and in the Murphy-Chambers Farm area near the Visitors Center. As an alternative, quite a few people seem to prefer instead to tube down the river, and there are several companies offering this during the summer months.
Whether you want to check out a place with a little bit of history, really enjoy the outdoors, or simply want to say you've been to West Virginia, I'd recommend a trip to Harpers Ferry. And after going I'd suggest hitting up Harpers Ferry Brewing. Its another outstanding view, this time with beer, plus they frequently have food trucks and music!
I'll leave you with West Virginia's anthem, which I sing every time we enter the state.
John Denver - not full of sh*t.
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