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  • Writer's pictureJoe

Glenkinchie 12

The only Scotch whisky region I've neglected so far is the Lowlands. There are reasons for this. First there aren't very many distilleries in the Lowlands, the southern part of the country where the big cities (Edinburgh and Glasgow) lie. Even most Scotch lovers will only recognize names Auchentoshan, Bladnoch and Glenkinchie, though there are several new operations and more on the way. Second is the reputation of the region's whisky, considered to be primarily light and delicate, which I'd likely think boring. So I haven't been in a hurry to review something from there. The final reason is I'd further narrowed down the already limited options. Auchentoshan triple distills, a rarity in Scotland, and I hadn't liked what I'd tried from them before. Bladnoch you don't see much. That left Glenkinchie. Their standard offering, which I used to think was probably overpriced at $50, has shot up to more like $70 and I'd almost given up on buying one. Then I discovered a new favorite whiskey shop.


Glenkinchie is another Diageo owned distillery. It's one of the primary whiskies that goes into Johnnie Walker and was one of the Classic Malts collection showcasing the company's (or actually a predecessor's) malts across the country. This connection augmented the desire to try something from them. Glenkinchie only really has two offerings available, the 12 year and a more expensive 'Distiller's Edition.' The 12 year will be the first Lowlands expression to be reviewed here.

Located in country farmland only about 15 miles southeast of central Edinburgh, the distillery doesn't have a ton of known history though it is fairly old, perhaps originally constructed in 1825. In 1837 it was renamed Glenkinchie for a nearby valley (glen) along Kinchie Burn (a stream/river). It closed down in 1853, becoming a sawmill, and eventually reopened in 1881. Soldiering on for another hundred years, apparently not well known, United Distillers (the Diageo predecessor from earlier) purchased it in 1989 and included it as one of the Classic Malts. It's a production powerhouse due to some very large stills, and had probably been part of Johnnie Walker well before its acquisition, so this decision made sense. Still, I find it amusing this big whisky company was more or less in the same predicament as I was. They wanted a Lowland and this one seemed as good as any. I only bought a bottle. They bought a distillery and through marketing made it a much bigger name than ever before.


One tasting note you frequently hear for Lowland whiskies, including this Glenkinchie bottle, is 'grassy.' I have to admit I was curious if that's a real thing you can pick out. Just one thing to think about while exploring the dram. Let's get to it.

Stats:

ABV - 43% (86 proof)

Mash - 100% malted barley

Maturation - ex-Bourbon barrels, a.k.a. 'American Oak'

Age - 12 years

Region - Lowlands, specifically Pencaitland (near Edinburgh)

Price - ~$70 (got it @ $39.99!)


Nose - Scotchy malt, very floral, some citrus

Color - Middle-of-the-road amber

Taste - Big malt, minimal oak, tons of flowers and a little something creamy sweet

Finish - Dry and smooth, leaves just a tingling sensation, most flavors fade quickly


Final Thoughts:

I struggle with picking out what can be the complex flavors from Scotches matured solely in ex-Bourbon oak. Generally I think they're boring but that may be lack of a defined palate. So this one was tough for me, as it was a very delicate and interesting (read: unusual) whisky.


What stands out above all is the floweriness. It's another example of something so common in whiskey where the description in theory shouldn't be good but somehow it absolutely is. I don't know if there's grassy anywhere in there but really is like consuming a garden. That's somewhat stolen from the linked tasting notes where, under Nose, it says: 'like breathing in a country garden.' It's true.


Now, all that said, I don't know if I'd recommend this due to the price alone. In my head want to group this with what I consider 'starter' single malts like Glenmorangie Original or Glenlivet 12 but that probably isn't fair. Better companions should be a little more complex or a little more refined, but even then it's a bit too pricey. However, if floral is something you really love in a whiskey then ignore my hesitation and go get this one. I myself probably won't buy this again even if I am happy to have tried it and gone through another wholly unique Scotch experience.

Sláinte!

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